A wider selection of tavernas (and the nearest shops) can be found at the little village of Agios Nikolaos, a 5-minute drive away or a fairly flat 40-minute walk along the coast, should you prefer to leave your car behind in order to sample the odd carafe of village wine. On your walk back home, you can listen to the sea against the rocky shore and gaze up at the stars after which the apartments were so aptly named.

There are also supermarkets, butchers, bakeries, laundromats, pharmacists, etc as well as a country hospital. Cars, mopeds and bicycles can be rented locally. Many interesting day trips and excursions are possible as well as short and long hikes (some guided).

You can reach Agios Dimitrios by plane direct to Kalamata during the tourist season, otherwise by plane to Athens with connections to Kalamata or from Athens by regular bus or train to Kalamata, then on to Agios Dimitrios by taxi or bus. Another option is a car ferry from Italy to Patras and then on to Agios Dimitrios (250km).

The Houses

Asteria and ilios Apartments stand in an elevated coastal position approximately five minutes walk from the harbor of a small village called Agios Dimitrios. Agios Dimitrios is the sort of place where nothing of any importance ever seems to happen. This little hamlet consists of no more than a few houses huddled around a tiny pebble cove with a postage-stamp size harbor. Framed by two rocky headlands, this picturesque cove is overlooked by an old Maniot watchtower on one side and a pretty whitewashed church on the other and, although attacks from the sea are only a distant memory these days, it feels as though these centuries-old buildings still guard the peace in Agios Dimitrios.

There are two buildings, each comprising four apartments. Asteria has been constructed from natural stone in traditional Maniot style.

Each apartment has a spacious open plan living-dining room with comfortable soft furnishings including a sofa bed, a very well-equipped kitchen area with a full-size cooker and a large fridge-freezer, one double and one twin bedroom and a modern shower room. Each also has a terrace or balcony with fabulous views straight out to sea, across to Messinia and along the coast to Agios Nikolaos.

From the bottom of the gardens, a steep footpath leads down to a staggering, layered rock formation, which resembles a natural amphitheater sweeping down to the shore, where have been placed ladders and a diving board to ease access into the sea. There are also a few sun loungers and umbrellas on the rocks for the guests and in peak season, you can buy fresh fish from the local fishermen who stop at the little swimming platform early in the morning.

The rocks below Asteria are a delightfully secluded spot for sunbathing, and, if you are a strong swimmer, for cooling off in the sea, but should you prefer sandy beaches, two attractive coves, one of which boasts a taverna, can be reached on foot in 15-20 minutes.

Prices 2009 (euros per night)

Low season : October - May
Mid season : June - September
High season : July - August